Wednesday, November 28, 2007

The Eric and Margaret Road Show

Two more friends from home just rolled through for a visit...and what a treat it was. As fun as our time out here on the road has been, very little can beat catching up with friends over a long brunch or dinner. Every time someone visits, it feels like a personal envoy from our homeland has set aside time for classified debriefing.


This time was a little different, though . . . . and possibly even a little better. Eric and Maggie didn't merely come out for a vacation and throw in a visit to us. They have put together their own version of a "break from the path" and struck out on longer-term odyssey of their own. Both successful professionals, they took a step off the treadmill and have been on the road since this past summer. They started in Turkey, went back to the States for a full two-week stint at Burning Man, decompressed at Lake Tahoe then made their way to Southeast Asia. They arrived in Phnom Penh just in time to celebrate American Thanksgiving with us.


With their visit, it might be the first time Tami and I can include ourselves on our friends' "visitor-on-the-road" list. One thing we found especially nice is that, in the past few months, E & M have covered a lot of the same ground as Tami and I. It was refreshing to get their hometown impressions of experiences we've shared. It's also been encouraging to see how comfortably they seem to have adapted to life on the road and how inspired they seem to be about the things they've seen.

Tami and I know there's a lot of awesomely fun stuff out here. It reinforces our delight, though, to hear the enthusiasm in Eric's voice when he described having a complete stranger in Vietnam hop on the back of his bicycle as Eric pedaled along with the guy on the back while neither could understand the other...but it was all just fine.


Every time we see friends from home Tami and I know we've got a lot to look forward to on our return. We miss everyone a lot. Reconnecting with some of you will have the added laughs of reminiscing over some of the stuff we saw together along the way.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

What can you get for your dollar today?



A lot less than you could back in August. That dollar you had THREE MONTHS AGO is now worth 91.4 cents. Our 12 Trillion dollar economy is now less than 11 Trillion. If your investments haven't appreciated 8.6% in the past ninety or so days, you're down.
The above chart compares the value of the US Dollar to a basket of currencies from other nations. A month ago, Federal Reserve Bank chair Ben Bernanke replied to questions about the falling buck by mumbling that within the US, the dollar is still a dollar. That leaves out those things Americans buy from abroad....starting with OIL. You can go down the list from there. We are a deficit nation. We buy more from abroad than we sell. Dollar goes down, our prices go up.
Got Gold?

Friday, November 16, 2007

Some Links To Our Fellows Work

As I said below, we've been busy. Here's some examples of what we've been doing. Just click the link and you can get to a blog for Kiva Fellows.

http://fellowsblog.kiva.org/2007/11/16/do-what-you-know/

You can see a compendium of my journal entries for Kiva/Maxima if you click on the link over to the right of this page called "Kiva Fellows Posts"

What Have We Been Up To?

Man . . . it's been a busy last few weeks. Since early October we've been working as Fellows with a microfinance institutution (MFI) here in Phnom Penh. Micro-finance has been around in various forms for over a hundred years but most people date its crossover into wider familiarity with the Grameen Bank in Bangladesh in the 1970's. The founder, a man named Muhammad Yunus, was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts. (It's a fascinating story if you click on those links.)

As I understand it, the idea of microfinance is to loan money to people who otherwise have no access to credit either:

1) ... in sums large enough to do anything more than pay for day-to-day living expenses or...

2) ... at interest rates low enough to allow them to pay it back without incurring further debt.

Perhaps the most common question asked and certainly the first one I asked was, "If the lendees can pay back the loans with interest, why don't they just save the money themselves and save the interest cost?" I've been told by several loan recipients that the schedule of making loan payments enforces a discipline that they would otherwise find elusive. These people do not put money in the bank. They are too poor (most earn around US $2.00 a day, give or take) , bank branches are few and far between and Cambodia has a recent history of bank failure and total loss of funds due to civil war and corrupt mismanagement. So, the money of the people our MFI works with stays in their homes. And when the money is there, they tell is there is always some need that causes them to spend it - whether it's a child that needs clothes or an extended family member that has an emergency. The fact that a loan officer visits them once a month gives them the excuse to say, "No, I can't spend it."

Loan officer disburses a loan (US Dollars are the default currency in Cambodia)

When they do get the loan, they suddenly have open to them choices they never had before. For example, we interview many people who make their livings by weaving cloth on hand and foot operated looms. For generations many of these people had only one avenue of managing their cost and income. They would get thread from local middlemen who also serve as the sole buyers of finished cloth. The typical arrangement our clients describe is a middleman extending 0a weaver credit of enough thread to make three finished pieces of cloth with the middleman taking two and the weaver taking the profit (with a price set by the middleman!) for the third. Apparently they got by but there was little or no movement up any economic ladder. Now, a weaver can get a loan for a few hundred dollars, travel the ten to thirty kilometers into Phnom Penh to one of the large markets and buy the supplies themselves for a lower cost. When they have completed enough finished pieces, they can take them into the city and sell them for a higher cost. The power of capital!

Weaver on the Mekong island of Koh Dach

Other business fare better, as well. Many farmers formerly could only afford a limited amount of seed, fertilizer, pesticide, etc. because they had a long period of waiting before they harvested and sold the produce. Now, they can take out a loan at a reasonable interest rate, buy larger amounts of materials and harvest and sell more at the end of a growing cycle. Many MFI's even offer a special loan product for farmers that allow them to make small payments early in the cycle when they have no cash flow saving the larger payments for the end of the growing/harvesting cycle. Whatever the situation, my experience in five weeks of interviewing clients is that they are very happy to have access to the funds.

So what's the role of Tami and I in all this? We applied to work with this organization from San Francisco called KIVA. They worked out a system set up on the Web to connect individual lenders (NOT donors) with people in need in the developing world. If you go to their website they explain it in detail. The essence of it goes like this, someone in Seattle goes to the Kiva site. There they see profiles of businesses/people in need of funding. Seattle (after they set up an account) clicks on a business they want to loan to and the funds go to an MFI who works with Kiva in the target country. At some point in the payback period, someone from KIVA or the MFI interviews the loan recipient to assess the impact of the loan. That's where Tami and I come in.
Tami on one of our morning commutes - a ferry across the Mekong River

We work as Fellows for Kiva. We get the distinct pleasure of riding with our MFI's (MAXIMA) loan officers to interview then blog about the clients - and you might not believe what a great time this is. We're doing many of the things we left home to do but, because we're working with a local organization and with a Cambodian who can interpret, we are allowed much deeper into the local culture than we've been ANY time on this trip. We're seeing a whole spectrum of the entrepreneurial economy. Because, at this economic level business and family are essentially inseparable, we get to see lots of family life we'd never see as well. Working with MAXIMA, we also experience working with a professional organization and MAXIMA is first-rate. Even though we're only scruffy volunteers, their staff has welcomed us in and supported us as if we were managing partners.

So, we have about another month of our term with KIVA/MAXIMA as Fellows. We'll see what comes after that but for now we're enjoying this very much.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

Well...we were just graced with another care package from home. This time, it came in the form of our globe-trotting friend from Manhattan, Manhattan. He's become so synonymous with his home city that his friends haven't come up with a better nick-name for him. Thinking about it, part of the reason his handle has stuck so well is that, more than most anyone I've ever known, Rich (real name) makes the effort to put in an appearance where and whenever he sees the opportunity to spend some quality time with friends. Exhibit A below...

Hell on Wheels (note mermaid surfing on the crocodile behind)

I don't think he's missed a Burning Man in nine years. He comes out to San Francisco or LA for fundraisers and parties. And now, following in the footsteps of Captain Ken, Manhattan has become our only other friend to make the super-hero list of people from home who've visited us twice. Man gets around...!

I've lobbied for a while now that Manhattan, while worn with unredoubtable aplomb, might be a less accurate moniker than he deserves. The more I get to know Rich, the more I see all these colorful and unique aspects of his personality incipient with naming possibilities. Those of you who know him might well agree. Consider this an opportunity to submit suggestions. :)

Right at home...

Rich has spent a surprisingly huge portion of his life on the beach. I learned more about that over the past few days. The man's second home is Jamaica and he knows his way around the sea, sand, thatched bungalows and cold beers as well as anyone I've ever met. He was/is very good company.

No, "Playa Shark" has been retired. Try again.

Our man blew into town from Thailand, checked out a few sites here in Cambodia and swept back out for NYC in time to celebrate Halloween. (At least we think he made it, we still haven't heard from him.) For a guy who'd I'd consider to be mellow, he sure tired Tami and I out. Seems like that's how it happened last time we saw him back in Amsterdam.

We'll miss ya Rich/Manhattan/Traveller/Excess/????